A Guide to Rome’s Trastevere Neighborhood

August 27, 2022
Trastevere neighborhood Rome, Italy

Trastevere is my absolute favorite Roman neighborhood – full of winding cobblestone streets dripping with ivy, local trattorias, and some of the coolest bars the city has to offer. This historically working class neighborhood still holds on to its roots, with a bohemian-turned-trendy vibe that is full of local gems, as its where a lot of Rome locals go out on the weekend. The northern side is popular for live music and bar hopping, but if you work your way down to the southern end or further away from the river, it’s still possible to escape the crowds and discover your own secret side streets and views.

Trastevere is just over the bridge from the historic Roman city center, and most of the big sites are within a 30 minute walking radius. For this reason, the neighborhood makes for a great home base, or an easy visit while you’re out exploring city center.

Ivy covers buildings and hidden alleyways in Rome's Trastevere neighborhood
Ivy covers many buildings and hidden alleyways in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood, adding to the charm.

Where to Stay in Trastevere

Hotel Santa Maria

Hotel Santa Maria is located within the heart of the bustling Trastevere neighborhood, and yet once they buzz you through the ivy covered gate you will feel as though you’ve entered a peaceful village in the Italian countryside. The customer service is excellent- some of our best experiences in Rome came from staff recommendations, not to mention the best cappuccino. This is a true Italian bed and breakfast- an extensive breakfast buffet is served in the garden every morning and included in the cost of your room. However, the breakfast area turns into a bar from 11 am to 10 pm and I highly recommend making time in your day to linger and enjoy a martini or glass of Frascati wine at least once during your stay- either in the gardens or up in the solarium (shared sun deck) filled with lemon trees. 

Borrow a bike from Hotel Santa Maria when staying in Trastevere, Rome
While staying at Hotel Santa Maria, borrow a bike and explore the Trastevere neighborhood

Where to Eat in Trastevere

Before traveling to Trastevere, an Italian friend told me “Oh really go to any corner trattoria- they are all great.” This is my least favorite kind of travel advice- I want the inside scoop! But once I got there I understood- Trastevere is such a vibe, especially as the bars and restaurants come to life as the sun sets across the Piazza di Santa Maria, a little corner trattoria might just speak to you and that is reason enough to try it! Here are the best local places I

La Tavernetta 29 da Tony e Andrea

We ended up here after following handwritten notes from our hotel concierge on “how to try the best pasta in the city!” You can opt to east inside (and probably meet more locals that way), or outside in the string light patio in the middle of Piazza di Renzi, a popular spot in Trastevere, so be prepared for a little wait. This meal was the spaghetti carbonara that has since ruined all other carbonaras for my pasta-loving husband, but the best part for me was throwing back some complimentary limoncello shots with Tony following the meal.

La Canonica Ristorante

I mean, I was sold when a server poured us some champagne to sip on while we waited for an open table. Then our decision was further confirmed after chatting with the Aussie family at the table next to us who said they’ve spent their summers in Rome for the last 15 years and eat here at least once a week. The food is good, the ambiance is fantastic. Inside beneath the funky light fixtures or outside under the stars, there’s not a bad seat in the house, and they stay open late to let you linger.

Outdoor dining options are everywhere in Rome's Trastevere neighborhood
Ristorante Arco di San Calisto comes alive at night under string lights!

Ristorante Arco Di San Calisto

The food is not the best I had in all of my time in Rome, but the service and ambiance is spectacular.  The outdoor terrace is magical, draped with vines and lights and right around the corner from Piazza di Santa Maria. On the weekend, street musicians set up at the end of this side street, so you get front row seats to the show. Definitely worth the wait for an outdoor seat.

Otello

This is one of those trattorias that just spoke to me! The restaurant offers traditional Roman fare, and yet the spritzes are served in mason jars. Grab a small table on the sidewalk, illuminated by the yellow street lamps lining the cobblestone street, and people watch over your mason jar and charcuterie.

There are so many charming local bars to visit at night in Trastevere
One of the best things you can do in Trastevere is allow yourself to get lost in it for a while.

Where to Drink in Trastevere

Bar del Cinque

This is the neighborhood’s cool locals bar, where you will see Roman hipsters reading over espresso in the morning and sipping mojitos with a cigarette in the evening. A great hang!

Mimi e Coco Trast

This wine and cocktail bar has a playful, vintage feel (think of Mimi & Coco as Bonnie & Clyde sort of characters), and if you order a cocktail during aperitivo hour, it comes with an impressive spread of tagliere (regional meat & cheeses).

Pimm’s Good

This is a trendy cocktail bar, with a large patio you’ll find buzzing with folks from all over any day of the week! The food is also quite good, so always a good place to grab a cocktail and small plate (primi) while waiting to get into a restaurant for dinner.

Drinking wine outside in Trastevere, Rome
The best way to end any night in Trastevere! Saluti!
The Best Summer Activities in Charleston, SC

The Best Summer Activities in Charleston, SC

There are so many ways to fill a perfect summer day in Charleston- even those of us who live here have a hard time fitting it all in! This list is a compilation of some popular local pastimes and favorite summer treats, all perfect ways to fill out that travel...

April in Paris

April in Paris

Five years ago today I ran the Paris marathon. In many ways, I still see April day as the culmination of my time living in Paris. Since I trained for the entire marathon while living there, it felt like a (very long) run through my backyard- a sweaty love letter to...

March in Paris

March in Paris

March- the month in Paris where some days feel like spring and others forecast snow. One of the best parts of this ambivalent weather is the fact that Parisians end up unsure of what each day’s appropriate head attire should be, thus upping my odds of a few non-ironic...

February in Paris

February in Paris

I love February in Paris, and it has nothing to do with the allegedly love-filled holiday that occurs half way through it. February is the month I decided Paris was home. Paris feels quiet in January, but tinged with a lackluster air of recovery. The holidays have...

January in Paris

January in Paris

It feels a little funny to start here, as January is the one month of the year I *might* try to dissuade you from booking a ticket to Paris. It's just so grey. Seriously, the January I lived in Paris I saw the sun a grand total of 3 times in January. No, I'm not...

A Paris Cafe for Every Type of Traveler

A Paris Cafe for Every Type of Traveler

“Bonjour. Un café, s’il vous plaît.” If there is a single phrase that a tourist in Paris should make sure to store in even the most jetlagged of brains, this just might be it. Coffee. Café. Espresso. Noisette. Café Crème. The French take their coffee breaks quite...

24 Hours in Sorrento, Italy

24 Hours in Sorrento, Italy

Perched on the cliffs along the Bay of Naples, Sorrento is a coastal town overlooking sparkling waters dotted by the islands of Ischia, Capri and Mt. Vesuvius. For many, Sorrento is seen as the gateway to Amalfi, and may just be a quick transfer along the way to...

How to Eat Like a Local in Italy by Region

How to Eat Like a Local in Italy by Region

Italians are incredibly proud of their local gastronomy- and rightfully so! Those of us coming to visit are generally ready to devour every pizza, pasta and tiramisu in sight. However, if you are a tourist looking to eat and live like the locals, you need to know what...

6 Places to Visit in Rome with Beautiful City Views

6 Places to Visit in Rome with Beautiful City Views

Watch the sun rise or set over the Eternal City from any of these five gorgeous locations and you will soon understand why people are still saying "Rome wasn't built in a day" - its huge! Terrazza Piazza Garibaldi The focus of this terraced piazza is the Giuseppe...